Life in Timbuktu

Sun, Moon and Stars

Total Solar Eclpse seen from an angle
This image of the total solar eclipse of March 29 2006 was taken in Timbuktu at considerable distance from where the full effect was visible it still caused a interesting phenomenon in the morning sky.

Timbuktu is situated between 16° 44’555” and 16° 47’ degrees North latitude and 2° 59’710” and 3° 00’ 977” degrees west longitude. This puts it in the same time zone as England. It is in the northern hemisphere so it follows the general pattern of shorter cooler days in the months of Dec Jan Feb and longer hotter days in the “summer” months of June July Aug. However being only 16 degrees off the equator the seasonal variation in day length and temperature is minimal. Read More...
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Utilities

Being in the middle of nowhere, the Sahara desert, Africa, an underdeveloped country one might have an image of people completely shut off from the rest of the world with no access to any modern aenities. Or being so used to all the comforts of the western world it maybe impossible to imagine a place that does not have them. So what utilities are available in Timbuktu and how do they work? Read More...
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They Aren't So Bad Off

Children out selling petrol for lamps
Misery is not synonymous with poverty. In impoverished countries, like Mali, apearances can be deceiving. While you may see many people going around in fine clothes and looking happy and well fed the reality may be a whole different story. In this photo you can see two young children that go out every afternoon selling small quantities of petrol for small sums of money to people whose only light at night is a kerosine lantern. One of the many ways families make ends meet in Timbuktu. Read More...
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Wedding Gifts

Wedding Gifts
It is the responsibility of the bride's relatives to see she has as wedding gifts all the necessary equipment to run a home. Oh the groom will probably furnish the house with things like mattresses a bed, a wardrobe a television/entertainment center any of the big fancy stuff that he wants and can afford but the, rugs and blankets and sheets and kitchen utensils will come with the bride. They will also go with the bride if she gets divorced, which is a good thing since this is a one time deal. Any future marriages by the woman will be modest affairs attended only by the couple the imam and two witness and gifts are limited to the dowry and any other thing her husband wishes to bestow on her. Read More...
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Women in Mali

Madame the vice-mayor of Timbuktu
Many articles and reports have been done on the condition of women in Africa or in Islam or in Muslim Africa and so on. I have often been asked my opinion either on the veracity of said articles or on the condition of women in such circumstances. My response is that it is much more complex than can easily be summed up in a 500 word article. It is also my feeling that such articles written by outsiders are often biased.

I will not deny that there is inequality of the sexes in Mali and I will discuss them. But other factors play a role. We must look not only at how our perceptions cause us to misjudge cultural differences but also that some issues that women face are not so much intentional discrimination rather they are the result of a very poor country with too few resources to meet the needs of its population. The final aspect of this question is that we in the west must first examine our own women's equality before seeking to accuse others. Let not those living in glass houses throw stones.
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Jawiya Koy

Jawara koy from a mispronunciation of the arabic word zawia meaning a place (house or whole neighbourhood) of repose where travelers, students, and others could stay and find meals and koy the Songai word for proprietor, thus the sheik or chief responsible for such a place who financed it and often offered charity to, or took care of debts of, the impoverished who made use of it. Read More...
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Wedding Party


Wedding Party in full swing
One of the events surrounding a traditional marriage in Timbuktu is a party thrown by the girlfriends and age-mates of the new bride. This party is a last bash with all her friends but it is also a show of strength and solidarity for her new in-laws to see that she has lots of people who care about her. Every body dresses up and there is lots of loud music and dancing, some flirting with the boys of the age-set and while the bride must act with dignity- she probably won’t be dancing herself she is permitted to smile, in stark contrast to the wedding itself where she looks miserable or is hidden most of the time. Read More...
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Traditional Wedding

Bride in veil
Weddings in Africa are complex, nuanced affairs. They are also rarely without challenges. Never have I attended one that didn’t have a share of the participants grumbling over some gap in the organization or imagined slight on the part of someone involved. It is an event full of details and frustrations for the organizers and also one of great importance to the life of the bride who will only ever have the one wedding of such pomp. This is where she is fussed over and celebrated and where should receive as gifts all the materials needed to start a household, from dishes and utensils, to quilts and carpets to clothing and cosmetics. Here is an insiders account of one wedding, as all wedding not without its tribulations but ultimately coming to a satisfactory conclusion. Read More...
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Trip To Bamako

Steep Grade Road Sign
The roads in Mali can be difficult, bumps, breakdowns, cattle crossing and more. Here is a recent trip I took to Bamako and the tribulations on the way. Read More...
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On Slavery

shakles
Slavery is a delicate subject but as it is such an integral part of Timbuktu’s history it should be touched upon. Read More...
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Games

Elaborate Wally Game Board
Younger Children have many little games that are similar to those played by western children. They play pretend house, school and market place, fly kites, skip rope, engage in variations on such games as marbles, patty cake, tag and hide and seek, and have a varriety of rhymes to figure out who is "it". Board and card games are played by older children and adults. In fact it is not uncommon to see a group of old men bickering over a party of "bullut" or talking smack as they take each other's peices in a desert version of checkers. Here are a few of the games played in Timbuktu. Read More...
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Toilets and other Tips

washroom
Unused to roughing it? Here are some tips on using toilets, bucket baths, doing laundry and other practicalities of life in West Africa Read More...
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gift giving

Demands for gifts can be annoying but you are not the only one dealing with this. Gift giving is an integral part of the culuture and can become quite complicated. Read More...
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The Timbuktion House

My house in Timbuktu
I have had a lot of questions about houses and how people live here in Timbuktu here are answers to a few questions about houses and their furnishings. Read More...
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Ramadan

Sankore Mosque
Ramadan is a month of fasting for Muslims. The fast, similar to the fasts in many religions, is about putting aside worldly concerns to better concentrate on the spiritual. To be closer to God. And also to become more aware and thankful of what one has. And more aware and considerate of those who have not and what it means not to have.
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A Day in the Life

Someone said "Everyday must be an adventure here in Timbuktu." Well in some ways yes, but it becomes everyday. Dodging dust storms is just so exciting when they happen on a regular basis. Read More...
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Why Not to Pull the Tail on the Donkey

donkies with children


The children of Timbuktu put a whole new spin on childhood games. The people of Timbuktu have a different perspective on health. Read More...
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Sand Storm

Dust Storm over Timbuktu
I looked up from what I was working on, having noticed that it seemed dimmer that it had been. Glancing out the window I saw the sky had gone sort of yellow. A sure sign a dust storm was approaching. I got up to have a better view and thus determine if it was to be a real tempet de sable or simply a strong wind stirring up the dust into the lower atmosphere. What I saw was a massive swirling swarming turbulent bank of yellow brown all across the eastern horizon and curling round the north and south as well. Read More...
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