COMMUNICATIONS
Communications are not always easy in Timbuktu but they do
exist.
Telephone
There
used several "telecentres" in Timbuktu, which consisted of
a small booth along the street, in someone’s shop or house
containing a telephone connected to a unit counter. Cost at
telecentres varies but it is typically 150 to 200 f cfa per
unit. The units vary according to where you are calling,
being longer for calls inside Mali and progressively
shorter for the more expensive long distance calls. These
“pay phones” have largely gone out of use due to the
ubiquitousness of the cell phone. The installations which
look like western phone booths of SOTELMA do not actually
work.
Cell phone service is now widely available in Mali and
other West African countries. It is actually quite cheap
now to buy the SIM card for a portable phone. If you have a
phone that takes this kind of card you could bring it along
and buy an abonnement
for Malitel or
Orange (formerly Ikatel), the two companies that operate in
Mali. Alternatively you could purchase a cell phone here;
simple models are relatively inexpensive from 15,000 to
25,000 f CFA, opportunities to buy used abound and you
could probably resell it on your departure. This, of
course, is most useful for people planing to stay in Mali
for a while or doing onward travel in west Africa where you
could easily get the SIM card for the next country. There
are also possibilities of international SIM cards or
international roaming plans. You can get these from the
phone company in your country of origin. It is more
expensive, but may be worth it for those who really need to
keep in touch.
A Note on Phone Numbers: In November 2008 Mali changed
from a seven digit to an eight digit phone system. The
change is both simple and complicated.
SOTELMA land-lines (which all start with 2) now have a 0
after the initial 2 in Bamako and a 1 after that 2 for the
rest of Mali. Here is the break down.
in Bamako prefixes used to start with
220,221,222,223,224,228 and 229 they are now
2020,2021,2022,2023,2024,2028, and 2029
Kolikore 225, 226, 227 have changed to 2125, 2126, 2127
Ségou 23 changes to 213
Mopti 24 changes to 214
Kayes 25 changes to 215
Sikasso 26 changes to 216
Gao 28 changes to 218
Timbuktu 29 changes to 219
ORANGE land lines (rare and all start with 4) have an
additional 4 at the beginning of their numbers
MALITEL moblies now have a 6 in front of the former number.
The help and service lines also now have a 6 in front, such
as 6 700 and 6 777. Malitel prefixes are: 6+
55,56,57,58,59
65,66,67,68,69
95,96,97,98,99
ORANGE mobiles have a 7 in front of the orignial number.
The help and service numbers also have a 7 in front such as
7 402 to check messages. Orange prefixes are: 7+
30,31,32,33,34
40,41,...,44,45,46,47,48
50,51,52,53,54
60,61,62,63,64
85,86,87,88,89
90,91,92,93,94
Internet
There are only two places in town that offer internet
services for public users. The service has to pass through
the centre in Bamako and if that is not working neither is
internet in Timbuktu. However, it does usually work,
although it tends to be slow at the best of times and
painfully slow when things get bogged down due to a lack of
lines. It seems to work better in the morning or in the
early afternoon. My theory is that this is because less
people are using the lines at that time, either internet or
telephone in general.
The first place is the city
Telecenter Polyvalent (TCP) on the pavement just a bit
south of the post office on the opposite side of the
street. The sign has a lot of extraneous writing
advertising the fact that it has a wheelchair accessible
ramp and who funded it, which makes it hard to recognize
but it is in the same walled compound with a teal green
building. You can also do faxes, photocopies and phone
calls. Hours are 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily, and are reasonably
well respected. You can connect your own laptop or use one
of their six machines. If you come later in the morning or
afternoon expect to wait for a turn. Here they give you a
slip of paper with the start time on it and bill you
according to the time you finish; you have a bit of leeway
with an extra minute to send off that message.
The second place is in the Library
Essoyouti facing the main entrance of the
Grande Mosque. They have eight computers as well as a place
for you to connect your own lap top. The hours are 9 a.m.
to 8 p.m. Monday through Thursday and Saturday. They tend
to close for a long break in the afternoon on Fridays and
only open in the evenings on Sundays. Here they use an
manager program where you input a code and the time is
counted down. You are kicked out when the timer hits zero.
You can add more time before the end and keep your session
open and if you don't use all your time you can keep your
code and come back later. This place is air
conditioned. This location
has closed for repairs to the building to my knowledge it
is not yet reopened for buisness
At both places connection is 1000 f CFA an hour, 500 a
half-hour. At the Telecentre you can also do only a 1/4
hour for 250.
The High School just north of the Columbe annex also has
internet connection and machines. This is supposed to be
just for the students and teachers but some visitors have
been able to connect there. The fee for students is lower
than the public internet but that may not apply to
visitors.
Post
The post office is on the pavement. Heading south from the
Place d’Independence round point you will pass the city
hall, and the SOTELMA on your left. The next major place is
the Post Office. The building is shared with the BHM bank.
Postal Services are to your right.
The post office is open week days from 8 a.m to 4 p.m. They
have a drop box just inside the main doors of the building,
which is thus only accessible when the post office is open.
There is also a drop box in front of the Hotel Colombe and
in front of the Patiserie Asco and some hotels will post
clients' mail for them, it doesn't hurt to ask.
Postage varies depending on destination and weight.
Postcards are:
- 405 cfa to The Americas and Australia, New Zealand, China etc.
- 395 cfa to Europe except France.
- 385 cfa to France, Angola and South Africa
- 375 cfa to Algeria
- 255 cfa to most West African countries (Burkina Faso, Côte d’Ivoire, Mauritania, Niger, Senegal, etc.)
Radio
There are nine different FM Radio stations broadcasting in Timbuktu.
91.4 Jamena Jamena means “the people” in Bambara it is an association founded by former president Alfa Konare and includes the Bamako based paper the Essor, and other publications, it specializes in local language translations and publishes several beginner literacy texts in local languages. The Timbuktu branch of its radio station is also a partner with Voice of America which it broadcasts at certain times of the day. It is located just east of the Hotel Bouctou.
92.0 Radio Santé A fairly new station this presumably includes programs about health however it mostly plays music. It is located off the main road a few blocks south and west of the Caravanserail Hotel
93.5 Al Fayda Also a fairly new station it, as will all stations, plays a mix of traditional and modern music from Mali and other African countries as well as French, American and Arabic pop, rock and rap.
94.8 Radio Lafia. Lafia means “Peace” and this station also dubs itself as “La voix de la femme” the voice of women. They claim to promote women’s rights and issues and a female DJ is supposed to be paired up with any male DJ at all times. Besides music they have some riddles and contests mostly directed at high school students. There is also a program wherein concerns or complaints sent in by women are aired and discussed in an anonymous manner and callers can give their opinion on how to resolve the issues. They have their offices inside the walls of the Govenorat buildings
96.6 ORTM National Organization Radio Television du Mali is the state Radio and Television chain. It broadcasts in French and local languages; programs include national and international news, Malian weather, birth and death announcements, football matches and music. Way south of town on the west side of the STELMA wireless tour station near the Government offices.
98.0 Al Farouk / RFI Al Farouk is the name of the patron saint of Timbuktu. This is the radio station housed in the Maison des Artisans. It is partnered with RFI, Radio France International, which it broadcasts much of the time especially during the news hours. Outside of that DJs play music, have riddle contests with prizes from local businesses, and read sappy romantic poems written by high school students. Broadcasts from withith the Maison des Artisans.
98.6 Radio Bouctou One of the oldest radio stations this one broadcasts out of the compound of the City Hall. Again it plays a lot of music and has the same sorts of contests as the other stations. It will also announce the list off the students who passed their DEF (grade nine exams required to enter high school) and other public announcements.
99.9 ORTM Tombouctou In 2008 ORTM created regional branches to serve each of the 9 regions of Mali. This is the regional branch of the state media. It often simultaneously broadcasts the same programs as the national station but at other times has programs tailored to the north of Mali and specifically to the region of Timbuktu.
101.4 Tin Tahanit Meaning “blessedness” in Tamacheq, tin tahanit is a Christian station run by Pastor Noch, the only native pastor in Timbuktu (arguably the only native Christian in Timbuktu), and his family and congregation. They broadcast music as well as religious content. Located not far from the Mama Haidara manuscript library
If you have a short wave radio with you, you can of course catch different stations in English, French, Spanish, German, Arabic, Chinese and many other languages. Note however that reception works best in the morning and evening when the radio waves are not so distorted. Many of the prominent stations such as BBC, VOA or RFI broadcast on multiple frequencies; if the reception on one frequency becomes poor try tuning in on another.
Written Press
There is one Regional Newspaper for Timbuktu called Anoura.